Twice a year, the sunrise does something Ramses II's engineers planned three thousand three hundred years ago.
On 22 February and 22 October, the first light of day enters the Great Temple, travels sixty metres down the axis through the hypostyle hall, and reaches the sanctuary carved into the deepest part of the rock. Four statues sit there. Three of them light up β Ramses II, Amun, and Ra-Horakhty the sun god. The fourth is Ptah, god of darkness, and he stays in shadow. He was always meant to.
The whole thing lasts about twenty minutes.
You need to be inside before the sun is, and so does everyone else. The temple opens in the dark on these two mornings and the crowd builds long before dawn. This trip is built around that. We leave Aswan at one in the morning, your entry tickets are arranged weeks in advance rather than bought at the window on the busiest morning of the year, and your Egyptologist stays with you through it so you know what you are watching while it happens.
Outside, once the sun has moved on, the site turns into a festival β Nubian drums, dancing, craft stalls, and the lake below in the early light. Most visitors leave the moment the alignment ends. We stay a while.